Rome

About Rome

Rome is layered history under everyday life. Ancient stones sit beside laundry lines and espresso bars: the Pantheon a short walk from the morning stalls of Campo de' Fiori, the Forum steps away from Monti's wine bars and vintage shops. Cross the river for Trastevere's cobbled lanes, or eat like a local at the Mercato di Testaccio, where supplì and cacio e pepe are serious business. Do the big sights early, take a long lunch, and save dusk for the view from the Gianicolo.

Best time: March–May, September–November

Highlights

• places

  Colosseum

  Book a timed ticket and visit at opening if you can.

• places

  Pantheon

  A Roman temple still holding its oculus sky.

• places

  Trastevere evening stroll

  Lantern-lit lanes across the Tiber after dark.